SEIKO Automatic & mechanical watches

 

Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori was only 21 years old when he opened the K. Hattori watch and clock shop in Tokyo’s Kyobashi district and began building and repairing watches and clocks. He was only 31 when he partnered with an engineer named Tsuruhiko Yoshikawa to set up the Seikosha watch factory, forerunner of today’s Seiko, in 1892. In 1895  Seikosha released its first pocket watch, called simply the Timekeeper.

 

Seiko considers the Seiko Marvel to be an epoch-making watch in its history, as it is the first Seiko watch whose movement was designed “fully in-house from scratch” — i.e., not influenced by other watch movements made in Switzerland or elsewhere. The movement diameter (26 mm) was larger than that of the Seiko Super (and matched the dimensions of the Seiko Automatic, which debuted the same year and is notable for being Japan’s first automatic wristwatch). It’s accuracy and stability, which incorporated a new Seiko invention, the “Diashock” shock absorption system, was far superior to that of its predecessors as well as that of other Japanese watches of that era.

SEIKO KING SEIKO 5626 - 7200

 

quality: A

  • List price: € 550,-
  • Suwa Seikosha studio
  • Year: 1975 - JDM
  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic 28.800 bph
  • Ø 37 mm (ex crown)
  • Functions: hour, minute, seconds,
    day & date (all works properly).
  • deviation: ± 8 seconds per day
  • no box/no papers/no warranty

 

NOTE

This Suwa King Seiko with its emerald green dial is a kind of magic. Although this watch has been worn and shows some user marks it still looks fresh. The case has been polished slightly, keeping in mind the Zaratsu rules of Seiko so all folds are still sharp. The watch has been overhauled May 2019, cleaned and serviced, also taking care of its faulty quick-set utility. The 56 movements that were spooned into these KS's were real workhorses. As most Grand Seiko's from that era were also equipped with the 56 movement, with somewhat better adjustments, you can really speak of a high quality timepiece.

 

Although the faceted glass also been polished it still shows some minor scratches and nicks. Also the straight lines in glass facet are less hard, which interestingly actually increases the legibility of the beautiful green dial.

This KS comes with a solid quality, unworn leather, alligator grained, black strap. To what I can verify by the Seiko catalogue, I believe it is the strap as Seiko intended at the time of release.

 

Item number: KS-0002-A

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SEIKO KING SEIKO VANAC 5626 - 7150

 

quality: AA

  • List price: € 525,-
  • Suwa Seikosha studio
  • Year: 1973 - JDM
  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic 28.800 bph
  • Ø 37 mm (ex crown)
  • Functions: hour, minute, seconds,
    day & date (all works properly).
  • deviation: ± 8 seconds per day
  • no box/no papers/no warranty

 

NOTE

This Suwa King Seiko is a gem with 37mm (without crown). The 5626 timepiece is running very well and all functions are working properly. The quality of the case, facet glass and band is just perfect. This Vanac recently received a professional brushing in which the design language of Seiko (Zaratsu polishing) was observed. This means that polishing is done on certain surfaces but not on the cutting edges of the surfaces.

 

It totally brings this Vanac back to business. A beautiful watch with heavy quality steel strap. The steel bracelets that usually accompanied the Vanacs were regularly small pieces of art, and that is also the case with this Vanac. The Vanacs were only meant for the Japanese domestic market at the time, and the movements that were spooned into these KSs were real workhorses. Most Grand Seikos from this time were also equipped with the 56 movements, with somewhat better adjustments, but you can really speak of a high quality timepiece.

 

Item number: KV-0001-AA

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SEIKO Business 6206 - 8040

 

quality: A case - B dial

  • List price: € 235,-
  • Automatic 18.000 bph
  • Year: 1979 - JDM
  • Stainless Steel
  • Ø 37 mm (ex crown)
  • Functions: hour, minute, seconds,
    day & date (all works properly).
  • deviation: ± 8 seconds per day
  • no box/no papers/no warranty

 

NOTE

 This classic Seiko Business automatic from Seiko runs very well. The 62xx timepiece was used in a different series of Seikos up to the famous Grand Seikos from the 60s. It's a special appearance with its large day indication window just above the 6 o'clock indication. At the time, this Business Selfdater was aimed at the Japanese "the business man". Despite its 37mm (without crown), this Business stands out and bears larger than its actual measurement. This is because the "bezel" is actually a very thin edge and therefore creates extra space for the face and readability.

 

There is a small damage dot next to the 1 hour indication of approximately 0.8 mm. Furthermore, the white silver dial looks good. The Business has no original Seiko strap but a good quality NOS vintage Jubilee strap that fits nicely with this watch. And for those who have never had a Seiko Business watch it seems a bit strange because you can only change the date by quick set option by pulling out the crown on the first position. The day indication can only be moved by hand by turning the hours. This is not a mistake of the timepiece,

but is standard with this 'Self Dater' from '65.

 

Item number: SB-0005-AB

 

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SEIKO Hi-BEAT 36.000 BPH 1944 - 0012 (LADIES)

 

quality: A OVERALL - B GLASS DOME

  • List price: € 210,-
  • Daini Seikosha studio
  • Year: 1971 - JDM
  • Stainless Steel
  • Hand wound - 36.000 bph
  • Ø 25 mm (ex crown)
  • Functions: hour, minute, seconds
  • deviation: ± 9 seconds per day
  • no box/no papers/no warranty

 

NOTE

A piece of Seiko history, the world's first ladies 36,000 bph! Another line of GS watches, the 19GS, is dubbed as the “Grand Seiko for Women”. Produced in the late 1960s to the early 1970s, the 19GS has three variations: Cal. 1984 VFA grade L4A, Cal. 1964 grade L3A, and Cal. 1944 grade L2A. The last 4 in the model number indicates no date. The Cal 19 Hi-Beat was the first ladies size mechanical watch worldwide to run at 36,000 bph. The 1944 - 0012 model does not carry Grand Seiko and is sometimes dubbed as Queen Seiko.

 

This ladies Seiko hand-wound watch runs beautifully and is in very good shape, the case did receive some light polishing. The domed plastic glass has some very small nicks. Overall, some tiny scratches of normal wear'n'tear are visible. The bracelet on this watch is just beautiful, no marks and will fit any wrist because of the clever clasp. While this model doesn't feature the Grand Seiko indication it seems to be regarded as a GS because the 1944 is a true hi-beat 'GS 36.000 bph' movement. Anyway, the silver lined dial is in good shape and sparkles. The second hand is a very nice 'sweeping' hand.

 

Item number: WH-0001-A

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HELVA HAND-WOUND AS1680 SWISS MADE

 

quality: B case - a dial

  • List price: € 145,-
  • Hand wound mechanical
  • Year: 1950-59 - JDM
  • Gold plated - leather
  • Ø 35 mm (ex crown)
  • Functions: hour, minute, seconds
  • deviation: ± 10 seconds per day
  • no box/no papers/no warranty

 

NOTE

There is not much known about the Helva watch brand besides that it is a true Swiss brand that probably went out of business somewhere in the early seventies. They produced some nice and upscale automatic and hand wound mechanical watches. They apparently made some movements in-house and they used movements from other quality Swiss brands such a ETA.

 

This Helva watch has a sunburst dial and a gold plated case. The movement was serviced early 2018 and is in very good shape. The case does have some user marks and slight scratches but nothing serious. I mean the watch is over 60 years old so nothing unexpected. The watch runs good and was recently fitted with a new genuine calfskin leather belt.

 

Item number: HG-0001-BA

 

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Vintage Seiko watches  - 2019 rights reserved.

Vintage Seiko watches - 2019